Regularly mow the lawn through the growing seasons. It is preferable to use a catcher as this minimises thatch development. Thatch is a major cause of dry patch and scalping when mowing.

Mowing in winter if weeds are present will minimise their development and reduce seeding of these unsightly lawn pests.

Fertilising the lawn in Spring with a High Nitrogen Lawn Food will get things moving after winter dormancy. Feed the lawn again prior to Christmas and again in early March. Additional applications of fertiliser may be required if the lawn is growing in sandy soil conditions.

In late spring and summer, the use of a liquid wetting agent such as Wetta Soil will maximise your watering efficiency and alleviate any dry patches. Wetta Soil relieves hydrophobic soil conditions which are the major cause of inconsistent turf over summer. They are cheap but very effective. Do not apply Wetting agents on hot days and always water them in well.

In October apply a Lawn Grub control if you have this pest. A second application in January will break the life cycle of Black Beetle.

Dethatching of warm-season grass lawns such as Sir Walter, Eureka and Nullarbor should take place in early November. With the exception of Sir Walter, drop the mowing height down and scalp the lawn back down as low as possible. Remove the clippings and feed the lawn making sure that the lawn receives a heavy watering post scalping and fertilising. The lawn will be back to its green lush self within 2-3 weeks if the watering is adequate.

For Sir Walter, if thatch is present use a leaf rake to thin out the thatch and just mow a little shorter than normal. Remove any clippings with a catcher.

Topdressing to level the lawn is best carried out during the growing season and should not be done after mid February. Light applications of 5mm at a time are best. Never smother the lawn. 2-3 applications of 5 mm until the lawn is level is better than one large dump of topsoil that will smother the grass.

Regular  mowing  improves  the  quality  and   look  of  Kikuyu.  It  should  not  be  left  longer  than  35mm,  as  thatching   and  scalping  tendencies  will  increase.  The  ideal  mowing  height  is   20-­25mm.  It  can  be  mown  shorter  (15mm)   if  mown  regularly  in  spring  and  summer.   Less  frequent  mowing  is  required  in  autumn  and  winter.

Mow often and regularly according to the season.

Keep mower blades sharp and replace them if worn. This ensures a clean cut.

Never remove more than one third of the leaf length per mow. Reduce the cutting height over several mowings until the desired height is reached.

If the area is shaded a longer cutting height will be advantageous.

Early morning watering is better than late at night. Late night watering encourages disease as the leaf is moist for longer periods.

Deep watering after establishment will encourage a longer root system. Avoid shallow frequent watering.

Fertilise regularly.

Apply soluble lime to acidic soils. Use a PH test kit to determine this or bring your soil sample to Anco for analysis.

Apply a Complete Fertiliser such as Anco Turf Starter late in Autumn. This will help the plant through winter and encourage root growth.

Aerate compacted and high traffic areas with a Garden fork or corer.

Use wetting agents in summer on dry patches and areas where surface run off occurs during irrigation.

Older thick spongy warm season grasses (Couch, Kikuyu) can be “dethatched” by mid summer.

Most lawns will benefit from an application of Lawn Food that has a high Nitrogen content. Look on the packet. You will see an analysis listing the percentage of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as three numbers. Typically Lawn Food has a higher number for Nitrogen which is the first number compared to the Phosphorous and Potassium numbers. Feed your lawn twice each season except in winter when the lawn is not active and does not require additional nutrition.

If your soil is very sandy consider using an organic fertilizer such as chicken manure pellets. There are several on the market with no or low odor and they are easy to spread. They give a quick boost of Nitrogen and the organic content aids in retaining nutrients for subsequent applications of fertilizer. If you are near Cranbourne or Geelong you can visit an Anco store where our trained staff can advise you further on lawn nutrition. The Lawn solutions stores dotted around Melbourne also stock premium fertilisers designed for all lawn types.

Give your new grass lawn at least 25mm of water within half an hour of installation.  In the first week, turf may require watering three times per day in warmer or windy conditions. Water daily or more often, keeping turf moist until it is firmly rooted (about two weeks). These first two weeks are the most critical time for the turf. If possible, try to avoid watering at night as this can increase the risk of disease. Do not allow turf to dry out at any stage.

In the third and fourth week, less frequent and deeper watering should begin. Heavy watering, but not as often, encourages deep rooting, Ideally you want the turf roots to get 100-150mm deep.  Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your new lawn has enough moisture to survive hot, dry or windy periods. Water areas near buildings more often where reflected heat dries the turf.

In Autumn & Winter, watering should dramatically reduce during these cooler months when we generally receive more rainfall and the turf goes into dormancy.

From time to time weeds, Pests and even disease may invade your lawn. Regular maintenance and feeding of the lawn along with regular mowing with sharp blades will reduce the incidence disease and weed invasion.

Selective herbicides are available for problem weeds such as clover, Bindii, Mallow, Cats Ear etc and Wintergrass control for Couch and Kikuyu lawns. Further information on weed control can be found here.

In the event of Black Beetle larvae (Cockchafers) invading the lawn the use of any Lawn Grub and Beetle control will help. For Black Beetle these are best applied in October and January in Victoria as this breaks the life cycle of the Black Beetle. More information on Lawn Grubs can be found here. 

Disease can affect lawns at certain times of year although if nutrition and moisture levels along with correct mowing procedures are maintained their incidence in our varieties is rare. Moist damp conditions and poor health are the cause of most disease problems. Good maintenance practices are the best methods of avoiding disease. The use of Mancozeb fungicide will help cure diseases such as Fusarium, Brown Patch and Helminthosporium.

Regularly mow the lawn through the growing seasons. It is preferable to use a catcher as this minimises thatch development. Thatch is a major cause of dry patch and scalping when mowing.

Mowing in winter if weeds are present will minimise their development and reduce seeding of these unsightly lawn pests.

Fertilising the lawn in Spring with a High Nitrogen Lawn Food will get things moving after winter dormancy. Feed the lawn again prior to Christmas and again in early March. Additional applications of fertiliser may be required if the lawn is growing in sandy soil conditions.

In late spring and summer, the use of a liquid wetting agent such as Wetta Soil will maximise your watering efficiency and alleviate any dry patches. Wetta Soil relieves hydrophobic soil conditions which are the major cause of inconsistent turf over summer. They are cheap but very effective. Do not apply Wetting agents on hot days and always water them in well.

In October apply a Lawn Grub control if you have this pest. A second application in January will break the life cycle of Black Beetle.

Dethatching of warm-season grass lawns such as Sir Walter, Eureka and Nullarbor should take place in early November. With the exception of Sir Walter, drop the mowing height down and scalp the lawn back down as low as possible. Remove the clippings and feed the lawn making sure that the lawn receives a heavy watering post scalping and fertilising. The lawn will be back to its green lush self within 2-3 weeks if the watering is adequate.

For Sir Walter, if thatch is present use a leaf rake to thin out the thatch and just mow a little shorter than normal. Remove any clippings with a catcher.

Topdressing to level the lawn is best carried out during the growing season and should not be done after mid-February. Light applications of 5mm at a time are best. Never smother the lawn. 2-3 applications of 5mm until the lawn is level is better than one large dump of topsoil that will smother the grass.

Regular mowing improves the quality and look of a Nullarbor Santa Ana lawn. A manicured look can be achieved with Nullarbor Santa Ana if mown short. It should not be left longer than 25mm, as thatching and scalping tendencies will increase. The ideal mowing height is 8-15mm. It can be mown shorter (6mm) if mown with a cylinder mower regularly in spring and summer. Less frequent mowing is required in autumn and winter. If a very short lawn is required (6-8mm) bi-weekly mowing in the growing season will be necessary to avoid scalping.

Nullarbor Couch is widely used as it makes a good environmentally friendly surface for your yard, playing field or parkland area when frequently mowed every 5-7 days in summer.

Mow often and regularly according to the season.

Keep mower blades sharp and replace them if worn. This ensures a clean cut.

Never remove more than one third of the leaf length per mow. Reduce the cutting height over several mowings until the desired height is reached.

If the area is shaded a longer cutting height will be advantageous.

Early morning watering is better than late at night. Late night watering encourages disease as the leaf is moist for longer periods.

Deep watering after establishment will encourage a longer root system. Avoid shallow frequent watering.

Fertilise regularly.

Apply soluble lime to acidic soils. Use a PH test kit to determine this or bring your soil sample to Anco for analysis.

Apply a Complete Fertiliser such as Anco Turf Starter late in Autumn. This will help the plant through winter and encourage root growth.

Aerate compacted and high traffic areas with a Garden fork or corer.

Use wetting agents in summer on dry patches and areas where surface run off occurs during irrigation.

Older thick spongy warm season grasses (Couch, Kikuyu) can be “dethatched” by mid summer.

Most lawns will benefit from an application of Lawn Food that has a high Nitrogen content. Look on the packet. You will see an analysis listing the percentage of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as three numbers. Typically Lawn Food has a higher number for Nitrogen which is the first number compared to the Phosphorous and Potassium numbers. Feed your lawn twice each season except in winter when the lawn is not active and does not require additional nutrition.

If your soil is very sandy consider using an organic fertilizer such as chicken manure pellets. There are several on the market with no or low odor and they are easy to spread. They give a quick boost of Nitrogen and the organic content aids in retaining nutrients for subsequent applications of fertilizer. If you are near Cranbourne or Geelong you can visit an Anco store where our trained staff can advise you further on lawn nutrition. The Lawn solutions stores dotted around Melbourne also stock premium fertilisers designed for all lawn types.

Give your new grass lawn at least 25mm of water within half an hour of installation.

In the first week, turf may require watering three times per day in warmer or windy conditions. Water daily or more often, keeping turf moist until it is firmly rooted (about two weeks). These first two weeks are the most critical time for the turf. If possible, try to avoid watering at night as this can increase the risk of disease. Do not allow turf to dry out at any stage.

In the third and fourth week, less frequent and deeper watering should begin. Heavy watering, but not as often, encourages deep rooting, Ideally you want the turf roots to get 100-150mm deep.

Weather conditions will dictate the amount and frequency of watering. Be certain that your new lawn has enough moisture to survive hot, dry or windy periods. Water areas near buildings more often where reflected heat dries the turf.

In Autumn & Winter, watering should dramatically reduce during these cooler months when we generally receive more rainfall and the turf goes into dormancy.

From time to time weeds, Pests and even disease may invade your lawn. Regular maintenance and feeding of the lawn along with regular mowing with sharp blades will reduce the incidence disease and weed invasion.

Selective herbicides are available for problem weeds such as clover, Bindii, Mallow, Cats Ear etc and Wintergrass control for Couch and Kikuyu lawns. Further information on weed control can be found here.

In the event of Black Beetle larvae (Cockchafers) invading the lawn the use of any Lawn Grub and Beetle control will help. For Black Beetle these are best applied in October and January in Victoria as this breaks the life cycle of the Black Beetle. More information on Lawn Grubs can be found here. 

Disease can affect lawns at certain times of year although if nutrition and moisture levels along with correct mowing procedures are maintained their incidence in our varieties is rare. Moist damp conditions and poor health are the cause of most disease problems. Good maintenance practices are the best methods of avoiding disease. The use of Mancozeb fungicide will help cure diseases such as Fusarium, Brown Patch and Helminthosporium.

Regularly mow the lawn through the growing seasons. It is preferable to use a catcher as this minimises thatch development. Thatch is a major cause of dry patch and scalping when mowing.

Mowing in winter if weeds are present will minimise their development and reduce seeding of these unsightly lawn pests.

Fertilising the lawn in Spring with a High Nitrogen Lawn Food will get things moving after winter. Feed the lawn again prior to Christmas and again in early March. Additional applications of fertiliser may be required if the lawn is growing in sandy soil conditions.

In late spring and summer, the use of a liquid wetting agent such as Wetta Soil will maximise your watering efficiency and alleviate any dry patches. Wetta Soil relieves hydrophobic soil conditions which are the major cause of inconsistent turf over summer. They are cheap but very effective. Do not apply Wetting agents on hot days and always water them in well.

In October apply a Lawn Grub control if you have this pest. A second application in January will break the life cycle of Black Beetle.

In shady areas raise the cutting height particularly in the cooler months.

Regular  mowing  improves  the  quality  and  look  of  a  Tall  Fescue  lawn.  The  ideal  mowing  height  is  30-­45mm.  Less  frequent   mowing  is  required  in  winter.

Mow often and regularly according to the season.

Keep mower blades sharp and replace them if worn. This ensures a clean cut.

Never remove more than one third of the leaf length per mow. Reduce the cutting height over several mowings until the desired height is reached.

If the area is shaded a longer cutting height will be advantageous.

Early morning watering is better than late at night. Late night watering encourages disease as the leaf is moist for longer periods.

Deep watering after establishment will encourage a longer root system. Avoid shallow frequent watering.

Fertilise regularly.

Apply soluble lime to acidic soils. Use a PH test kit to determine this or bring your soil sample to Anco for analysis.

Apply a Complete Fertiliser such as Anco Turf Starter late in Autumn. This will help the plant through winter and encourage root growth.

Aerate compacted and high traffic areas with a Garden fork or corer.

Use wetting agents in summer on dry patches and areas where surface run off occurs during irrigation.

Older thick spongy warm season grasses (Couch, Kikuyu) can be “dethatched” by mid summer.

Most lawns will benefit from an application of Lawn Food that has a high Nitrogen content. Look on the packet. You will see an analysis listing the percentage of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as three numbers. Typically Lawn Food has a higher number for Nitrogen which is the first number compared to the Phosphorous and Potassium numbers. Feed your lawn twice each season except in winter when the lawn is not active and does not require additional nutrition.

If your soil is very sandy consider using an organic fertilizer such as chicken manure pellets. There are several on the market with no or low odor and they are easy to spread. They give a quick boost of Nitrogen and the organic content aids in retaining nutrients for subsequent applications of fertilizer. If you are near Cranbourne or Geelong you can visit an Anco store where our trained staff can advise you further on lawn nutrition. The Lawn solutions stores dotted around Melbourne also stock premium fertilisers designed for all lawn types

Give  your  new  grass  lawn  at  least  25mm  of  water  within  half  an  hour  of  installation.

In  the  first  week,  turf  may  require  watering  three  times  per  day  in  warmer  or  windy  conditions.  Water  daily  or  more  often,   keeping  turf  moist  until  it  is  firmly  rooted  (about  two  weeks).  These  first  two  weeks  are  the  most  critical  time  for  the  turf.  If   possible,  try  to  avoid  watering  at  night  as  this  can  increase  the  risk  of  disease.  Do  not  allow  turf  to  dry  out  at  any  stage.

In  the  third  and  fourth  week,  less  frequent  and  deeper  watering  should  begin.  Heavy  watering,  but  not  as  often,  encourages   deep  rooting,  Ideally  you  want  the  turf  roots  to  get  100-­150mm  deep.

Weather  conditions  will  dictate  the  amount  and  frequency  of  watering.  Be  certain  that  your  new  lawn  has  enough  moisture   to  survive  hot,  dry  or  windy  periods.  Water  areas  near  buildings  more  often  where  reflected  heat  dries  the  turf.

In  Autumn  &  Winter,  watering  should  dramatically  reduce  during  these  cooler  months  when  we  generally  receive  more   rainfall  and  the  turf  goes  into  dormancy.

From time to time weeds, Pests and even disease may invade your lawn. Regular maintenance and feeding of the lawn along with regular mowing with sharp blades will reduce the incidence disease and weed invasion.

Selective herbicides are available for problem weeds such as clover, Bindii, Mallow, Cats Ear etc and Wintergrass control for Couch and Kikuyu lawns. Further information on weed control can be found here.

In the event of Black Beetle larvae (Cockchafers) invading the lawn the use of any Lawn Grub and Beetle control will help. For Black Beetle these are best applied in October and January in Victoria as this breaks the life cycle of the Black Beetle. More information on Lawn Grubs can be found here. 

Disease can affect lawns at certain times of year although if nutrition and moisture levels along with correct mowing procedures are maintained their incidence in our varieties is rare. Moist damp conditions and poor health are the cause of most disease problems. Good maintenance practices are the best methods of avoiding disease. The use of Mancozeb fungicide will help cure diseases such as Fusarium, Brown Patch and Helminthosporium.