Lawn Care Tips

Regularly mow the lawn through the growing seasons. It is preferable to use a catcher as this minimises thatch development. Thatch is a major cause of dry patch and scalping when mowing.

Mowing in winter if weeds are present will minimise their development and reduce seeding of these unsightly lawn pests.

Fertilising the lawn in Spring with a High Nitrogen Lawn Food will get things moving after winter dormancy. Feed the lawn again prior to Christmas and again in early March. Additional applications of fertiliser may be required if the lawn is growing in sandy soil conditions.

In late spring and summer, the use of a liquid wetting agent such as Wetta Soil will maximise your watering efficiency and alleviate any dry patches. Wetta Soil relieves hydrophobic soil conditions which are the major cause of inconsistent turf over summer. They are cheap but very effective. Do not apply Wetting agents on hot days and always water them in well.

In October apply a Lawn Grub control if you have this pest. A second application in January will break the life cycle of Black Beetle.

Dethatching of warm-season grass lawns such as Sir Walter, Eureka and Nullarbor should take place in early November. With the exception of Sir Walter, drop the mowing height down and scalp the lawn back down as low as possible. Remove the clippings and feed the lawn making sure that the lawn receives a heavy watering post scalping and fertilising. The lawn will be back to its green lush self within 2-3 weeks if the watering is adequate.

For Sir Walter, if thatch is present use a leaf rake to thin out the thatch and just mow a little shorter than normal. Remove any clippings with a catcher.

Topdressing to level the lawn is best carried out during the growing season and should not be done after mid February. Light applications of 5mm at a time are best. Never smother the lawn. 2-3 applications of 5 mm until the lawn is level is better than one large dump of topsoil that will smother the grass.

Regular  mowing  improves  the  quality  and   look  of  Kikuyu.  It  should  not  be  left  longer  than  35mm,  as  thatching   and  scalping  tendencies  will  increase.  The  ideal  mowing  height  is   20-­25mm.  It  can  be  mown  shorter  (15mm)   if  mown  regularly  in  spring  and  summer.   Less  frequent  mowing  is  required  in  autumn  and  winter.

Mow often and regularly according to the season.

Keep mower blades sharp and replace them if worn. This ensures a clean cut.

Never remove more than one third of the leaf length per mow. Reduce the cutting height over several mowings until the desired height is reached.

If the area is shaded a longer cutting height will be advantageous.

Early morning watering is better than late at night. Late night watering encourages disease as the leaf is moist for longer periods.

Deep watering after establishment will encourage a longer root system. Avoid shallow frequent watering.

Fertilise regularly.

Apply soluble lime to acidic soils. Use a PH test kit to determine this or bring your soil sample to Anco for analysis.

Apply a Complete Fertiliser such as Anco Turf Starter late in Autumn. This will help the plant through winter and encourage root growth.

Aerate compacted and high traffic areas with a Garden fork or corer.

Use wetting agents in summer on dry patches and areas where surface run off occurs during irrigation.

Older thick spongy warm season grasses (Couch, Kikuyu) can be “dethatched” by mid summer.

Most lawns will benefit from an application of Lawn Food that has a high Nitrogen content. Look on the packet. You will see an analysis listing the percentage of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as three numbers. Typically Lawn Food has a higher number for Nitrogen which is the first number compared to the Phosphorous and Potassium numbers. Feed your lawn twice each season except in winter when the lawn is not active and does not require additional nutrition.

If your soil is very sandy consider using an organic fertilizer such as chicken manure pellets. There are several on the market with no or low odor and they are easy to spread. They give a quick boost of Nitrogen and the organic content aids in retaining nutrients for subsequent applications of fertilizer. If you are near Cranbourne or Geelong you can visit an Anco store where our trained staff can advise you further on lawn nutrition. The Lawn solutions stores dotted around Melbourne also stock premium fertilisers designed for all lawn types.

A good watering program is essential to keep a happy and healthy lawn. The age of your lawn, the
season and the weather will all be factors in how much you will be required to water.

–Watering freshly laid turf Weeks 0-4
New turf should always be watered as soon as possible after laying and then kept damp continuously for
the establishment period (2-8 weeks depending on variety and season). Water your new lawn 2-3 times a
day and ensure that it does not dry out! You may require more water in extreme heat.

-Watering established turf Weeks 4-6+
Once your lawns new root system has started to establish (the turf is firm to the ground), you can start to gradually decrease your watering frequency and increase the time. It is best to do this slowly, so your
lawn can adapt to its new routine. Decrease to a longer water once a day, then every second day and so
on, until you are able to give your lawn one deep soak (1-2hours), once a week. These longer waters will
help your lawn to search for its own water in the soil, creating stronger and deeper roots.

What is the best way to water your lawn?
Not only is water essential for your turf, but the way in which you water is VERY important too. The most
efficient and effective way to water your lawn is by using a portable sprinkler or a pop-up irrigation system.
This method of watering delivers water evenly and quickly. If you are using a portable sprinkler, just be
mindful to move the sprinkler around your yard as required to ensure your whole lawn is receiving water.
(HANDY TIP: Add a tap timer to your tap so you can just ‘Set & Forget’)

From time to time weeds, Pests and even disease may invade your lawn. Regular maintenance and feeding of the lawn along with regular mowing with sharp blades will reduce the incidence disease and weed invasion.

Selective herbicides are available for problem weeds such as clover, Bindii, Mallow, Cats Ear etc and Wintergrass control for Couch and Kikuyu lawns. Further information on weed control can be found here.

In the event of Black Beetle larvae (Cockchafers) invading the lawn the use of any Lawn Grub & Beetle Control will help. For Black Beetle these are best applied in October and January in Victoria as this breaks the life cycle of the Black Beetle. You can find our solutions for weeds & pests here. More information on Lawn Grubs can be found here.

Disease can affect lawns at certain times of year although if nutrition and moisture levels along with correct mowing procedures are maintained their incidence in our varieties is rare. Moist damp conditions and poor health are the cause of most disease problems. Good maintenance practices are the best methods of avoiding disease. The use of Mancozeb fungicide will help cure diseases such as Fusarium, Brown Patch and Helminthosporium.

Regularly mow the lawn through the growing seasons. It is preferable to use a catcher as this minimises thatch development. Thatch is a major cause of dry patch and scalping when mowing.

Mowing in winter if weeds are present will minimise their development and reduce seeding of these unsightly lawn pests.
Fertilising the lawn in late September with a High Nitrogen Lawn Food will get things moving after winter dormancy. Feed the lawn again in late February. Additional applications of fertiliser at half rates may be required if the lawn is growing in sandy soil conditions.

In late spring and summer, the use of a liquid wetting agent such as Wetta Soil will maximise your watering efficiency and alleviate any dry patches. Wetta Soil relieves hydrophobic soil conditions which are the major cause of inconsistent turf over summer. They are cheap but very effective. Do not apply Wetting agents on hot days and always water them in well.

In October apply a Lawn Grub control if you have this pest. A second application in January will break the life cycle of Black Beetle. Acelypryn is an ideal product for this purpose as it is easy to apply and gives up to 3 months protection.
Dethatching of warm-season grass lawns such as Sir Grange, Sir Walter, Eureka and Nullarbor should take place in early November. With the exception of Sir Walter, drop the mowing height down and scalp the lawn back down as low as possible. Remove the clippings and feed the lawn making sure that the lawn receives a heavy watering post scalping and fertilising. A scarifier is the perfect tool for use on Sir grange in Spring to alleviate thatch problems should they occur.They can be hired from some specialist hire companies.
Following dethatching the lawn will be back to its green lush self within 2-3 weeks if the watering is adequate and the process is undertaken in November. Only dethatch your Sir Grange lawn in November and December in the Southern States of Australia
Topdressing to level the lawn if required should be carried out from November to early March. 5mm Light applications of sand at a time are best. Never smother the lawn. 2-3 applications of 5 mm until the lawn is level is better than one large dump of topsoil that will smother the grass. A light Topdressing after scarifying or dethatching will give excellent results.

Regular  mowing  improves  the  quality  and   look  of  Sir Grange.   Sir Grange is a versatile grass and can be mown short for a manicured look or left to grow long for ornamental gardens and spaces where a natural grass look is required such as as a Japanese style garden.

Sir Grange is a slow growing grass and will require less mowing than other lawn types.
Keep mower blades sharp and replace them if worn. This ensures a clean cut.
Never remove more than one third of the leaf length per mow unless you are detatching the lawn. When reducing the cutting height do so over over several mowings until the desired height is reached.

If the area is shaded a longer cutting height will be advantageous.
Early morning watering is better than late at night. Late night watering encourages disease as the leaf is moist for longer periods.
Deep watering after establishment will encourage a longer root system. Avoid shallow frequent watering.

Fertilise regularly.

Apply soluble lime to acidic soils. Use a PH test kit to determine this or bring your soil sample to Anco for analysis.

Apply a Complete Fertiliser such as Anco Turf Starter late in Autumn. This will help the plant through winter and encourage root growth.
Aerate compacted and high traffic areas with a Garden fork or corer.
Use wetting agents in summer on dry patches and areas where surface run off occurs during irrigation.
Older thick spongy warm season grasses (Couch, Kikuyu) can be “dethatched” by mid summer.

It is recommended that Anco Lawn Starter or Lawn Solutions Lawn Launcher is used as a starter fertiliser for the best establishment of Sir Grange
 
Most lawns will benefit from an application of Lawn Food that has a high Nitrogen content. Look on the packet. You will see an analysis listing the percentage of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as three numbers. This termed the NPK ratio. Typically Lawn Food has a higher number for Nitrogen which is the first number compared to the Phosphorous and Potassium numbers.

Your Sir Grange lawn will require very little fertiliser once it is established. We recommend an application of Anco Lawn Food in late September and again in late February. If your soil is very sandy consider using an organic fertilizer such as chicken manure pellets. There are several on the market with no or low odour and they are easy to spread. The organic content in Chicken manure pellets aids in retaining nutrients for subsequent applications of fertilizer.

Half rate applications of lawn food are advantageous if your lawn has a sandy soil profile. They give a quick boost of Nitrogen. If you are near Clyde you can visit an Anco store where our trained staff can advise you further on lawn nutrition.

A good watering program is essential to keep a happy and healthy lawn. The age of your lawn, the
season and the weather will all be factors in how much you will be required to water.

–Watering freshly laid turf Weeks 0-4
New turf should always be watered as soon as possible after laying and then kept damp continuously for
the establishment period (2-8 weeks depending on variety and season). Water your new lawn 2-3 times a
day and ensure that it does not dry out! You may require more water in extreme heat.

-Watering established turf Weeks 4-6+
Once your lawns new root system has started to establish (the turf is firm to the ground), you can start to gradually decrease your watering frequency and increase the time. It is best to do this slowly, so your
lawn can adapt to its new routine. Decrease to a longer water once a day, then every second day and so
on, until you are able to give your lawn one deep soak (1-2hours), once a week. These longer waters will
help your lawn to search for its own water in the soil, creating stronger and deeper roots.

What is the best way to water your lawn?
Not only is water essential for your turf, but the way in which you water is VERY important too. The most
efficient and effective way to water your lawn is by using a portable sprinkler or a pop-up irrigation system.
This method of watering delivers water evenly and quickly. If you are using a portable sprinkler, just be
mindful to move the sprinkler around your yard as required to ensure your whole lawn is receiving water.
(HANDY TIP: Add a tap timer to your tap so you can just ‘Set & Forget’)

From time to time weeds, Pests and even disease may invade your lawn. Regular maintenance and feeding of the lawn along with regular mowing with sharp blades will reduce the incidence disease and weed invasion.

Selective and Pre-emergent herbicides are available for problem weeds such as clover, Bindii, Mallow, Cats Ear and Wintergrass. Further information on weed control can be found here.

In the event of Black Beetle larvae (Cockchafers) invading the lawn the use of any Lawn Grub & Beetle Control will help. For Black Beetle these are best applied in October and January in Victoria as this breaks the life cycle of the Black Beetle. Acelypryn is ideal for controlling Black Beetle issues with season long control. You can find our solutions for weeds & pests here. More information on Lawn Grubs can be found here.

Disease can affect lawns at certain times of year although if nutrition and moisture levels along with correct mowing procedures are maintained their incidence in our varieties is rare. Moist damp conditions and poor lawn health are the cause of most disease problems. Good maintenance practices are the best methods of avoiding disease. The use of Mancozeb fungicide will help cure diseases such as Fusarium, Brown Patch and Helminthosporium should they occur.

Regularly mow the lawn through the growing seasons. It is preferable to use a catcher as this minimises thatch development. Thatch is a major cause of dry patch and scalping when mowing.

Mowing in winter if weeds are present will minimise their development and reduce seeding of these unsightly lawn pests.

Fertilising the lawn in Spring with a High Nitrogen Lawn Food will get things moving after winter dormancy. Feed the lawn again prior to Christmas and again in early March. Additional applications of fertiliser may be required if the lawn is growing in sandy soil conditions.

In late spring and summer, the use of a liquid wetting agent such as Wetta Soil will maximise your watering efficiency and alleviate any dry patches. Wetta Soil relieves hydrophobic soil conditions which are the major cause of inconsistent turf over summer. They are cheap but very effective. Do not apply Wetting agents on hot days and always water them in well.

In October apply a Lawn Grub control if you have this pest. A second application in January will break the life cycle of Black Beetle.

Dethatching of warm-season grass lawns such as Sir Walter, Eureka and Nullarbor should take place in early November. With the exception of Sir Walter, drop the mowing height down and scalp the lawn back down as low as possible. Remove the clippings and feed the lawn making sure that the lawn receives a heavy watering post scalping and fertilising. The lawn will be back to its green lush self within 2-3 weeks if the watering is adequate.

For Sir Walter, if thatch is present use a leaf rake to thin out the thatch and just mow a little shorter than normal. Remove any clippings with a catcher.

Topdressing to level the lawn is best carried out during the growing season and should not be done after mid-February. Light applications of 5mm at a time are best. Never smother the lawn. 2-3 applications of 5mm until the lawn is level is better than one large dump of topsoil that will smother the grass.

Regular mowing improves the quality and look of a TifTuf Bermuda lawn. A manicured look can be achieved with TifTuf if mown short. It should not be left longer than a maximum of 36mm, as thatching and scalping tendencies will increase. The ideal mowing height is 8-15mm. It can be mown shorter (6mm) if mown with a cylinder mower regularly in spring and summer. Less frequent mowing is required in autumn and winter. If a very short lawn is required (6-8mm) bi-weekly mowing in the growing season will be necessary to avoid scalping.

Nullarbor Couch is widely used as it makes a good environmentally friendly surface for your yard, playing field or parkland area when frequently mowed every 5-7 days in summer.

Mow often and regularly according to the season.

Keep mower blades sharp and replace them if worn. This ensures a clean cut.

Never remove more than one third of the leaf length per mow. Reduce the cutting height over several mowings until the desired height is reached.

If the area is shaded a longer cutting height will be advantageous.

Early morning watering is better than late at night. Late night watering encourages disease as the leaf is moist for longer periods.

Deep watering after establishment will encourage a longer root system. Avoid shallow frequent watering.

Fertilise regularly.

Apply soluble lime to acidic soils. Use a PH test kit to determine this or bring your soil sample to Anco for analysis.

Apply a Complete Fertiliser such as Anco Turf Starter late in Autumn. This will help the plant through winter and encourage root growth.

Aerate compacted and high traffic areas with a Garden fork or corer.

Use wetting agents in summer on dry patches and areas where surface run off occurs during irrigation.

Older thick spongy warm season grasses (Couch, Kikuyu) can be “dethatched” by mid summer.

Most lawns will benefit from an application of Lawn Food that has a high Nitrogen content. Look on the packet. You will see an analysis listing the percentage of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as three numbers. Typically Lawn Food has a higher number for Nitrogen which is the first number compared to the Phosphorous and Potassium numbers. Feed your lawn twice each season except in winter when the lawn is not active and does not require additional nutrition.

If your soil is very sandy consider using an organic fertilizer such as chicken manure pellets. There are several on the market with no or low odor and they are easy to spread. They give a quick boost of Nitrogen and the organic content aids in retaining nutrients for subsequent applications of fertilizer. If you are near Cranbourne or Geelong you can visit an Anco store where our trained staff can advise you further on lawn nutrition. The Lawn solutions stores dotted around Melbourne also stock premium fertilisers designed for all lawn types.

A good watering program is essential to keep a happy and healthy lawn. The age of your lawn, the
season and the weather will all be factors in how much you will be required to water.

–Watering freshly laid turf Weeks 0-4
New turf should always be watered as soon as possible after laying and then kept damp continuously for
the establishment period (2-8 weeks depending on variety and season). Water your new lawn 2-3 times a
day and ensure that it does not dry out! You may require more water in extreme heat.

-Watering established turf Weeks 4-6+
Once your lawns new root system has started to establish (the turf is firm to the ground), you can start to gradually decrease your watering frequency and increase the time. It is best to do this slowly, so your
lawn can adapt to its new routine. Decrease to a longer water once a day, then every second day and so
on, until you are able to give your lawn one deep soak (1-2hours), once a week. These longer waters will
help your lawn to search for its own water in the soil, creating stronger and deeper roots.

What is the best way to water your lawn?
Not only is water essential for your turf, but the way in which you water is VERY important too. The most
efficient and effective way to water your lawn is by using a portable sprinkler or a pop-up irrigation system.
This method of watering delivers water evenly and quickly. If you are using a portable sprinkler, just be
mindful to move the sprinkler around your yard as required to ensure your whole lawn is receiving water.
(HANDY TIP: Add a tap timer to your tap so you can just ‘Set & Forget’)

From time to time weeds, Pests and even disease may invade your lawn. Regular maintenance and feeding of the lawn along with regular mowing with sharp blades will reduce the incidence disease and weed invasion.

Selective herbicides are available for problem weeds such as clover, Bindii, Mallow, Cats Ear etc and Wintergrass control for Couch and Kikuyu lawns. Further information on weed control can be found here.

In the event of Black Beetle larvae (Cockchafers) invading the lawn the use of any Lawn grub and beetle control will help. For Black Beetle these are best applied in October and January in Victoria as this breaks the life cycle of the Black Beetle. More information on Lawn Grubs can be found here. 

Disease can affect lawns at certain times of year although if nutrition and moisture levels along with correct mowing procedures are maintained their incidence in our varieties is rare. Moist damp conditions and poor health are the cause of most disease problems. Good maintenance practices are the best methods of avoiding disease. The use of Mancozeb fungicide will help cure diseases such as Fusarium, Brown Patch and Helminthosporium.

Regularly mow the lawn through the growing seasons. It is preferable to use a catcher as this minimises thatch development. Thatch is a major cause of dry patch and scalping when mowing.

Mowing in winter if weeds are present will minimise their development and reduce seeding of these unsightly lawn pests.

Fertilising the lawn in Spring with a High Nitrogen Lawn Food will get things moving after winter. Feed the lawn again prior to Christmas and again in early March. Additional applications of fertiliser may be required if the lawn is growing in sandy soil conditions.

In late spring and summer, the use of a liquid wetting agent such as Wetta Soil will maximise your watering efficiency and alleviate any dry patches. Wetta Soil relieves hydrophobic soil conditions which are the major cause of inconsistent turf over summer. They are cheap but very effective. Do not apply Wetting agents on hot days and always water them in well.

In October apply a Lawn Grub control if you have this pest. A second application in January will break the life cycle of Black Beetle.

In shady areas raise the cutting height particularly in the cooler months.

Regular  mowing  improves  the  quality  and  look  of  a  Tall  Fescue  lawn.  The  ideal  mowing  height  is  30-­45mm.  Less  frequent   mowing  is  required  in  winter.

Mow often and regularly according to the season.

Keep mower blades sharp and replace them if worn. This ensures a clean cut.

Never remove more than one third of the leaf length per mow. Reduce the cutting height over several mowings until the desired height is reached.

If the area is shaded a longer cutting height will be advantageous.

Early morning watering is better than late at night. Late night watering encourages disease as the leaf is moist for longer periods.

Deep watering after establishment will encourage a longer root system. Avoid shallow frequent watering.

Fertilise regularly.

Apply soluble lime to acidic soils. Use a PH test kit to determine this or bring your soil sample to Anco for analysis.

Apply a Complete Fertiliser such as Anco Turf Starter late in Autumn. This will help the plant through winter and encourage root growth.

Aerate compacted and high traffic areas with a Garden fork or corer.

Use wetting agents in summer on dry patches and areas where surface run off occurs during irrigation.

Older thick spongy warm season grasses (Couch, Kikuyu) can be “dethatched” by mid summer.

Most lawns will benefit from an application of Lawn Food that has a high Nitrogen content. Look on the packet. You will see an analysis listing the percentage of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as three numbers. Typically Lawn Food has a higher number for Nitrogen which is the first number compared to the Phosphorous and Potassium numbers. Feed your lawn twice each season except in winter when the lawn is not active and does not require additional nutrition.

If your soil is very sandy consider using an organic fertilizer such as chicken manure pellets. There are several on the market with no or low odor and they are easy to spread. They give a quick boost of Nitrogen and the organic content aids in retaining nutrients for subsequent applications of fertilizer. If you are near Cranbourne or Geelong you can visit an Anco store where our trained staff can advise you further on lawn nutrition. The Lawn solutions stores dotted around Melbourne also stock premium fertilisers designed for all lawn types

A good watering program is essential to keep a happy and healthy lawn. The age of your lawn, the
season and the weather will all be factors in how much you will be required to water.

–Watering freshly laid turf Weeks 0-4
New turf should always be watered as soon as possible after laying and then kept damp continuously for
the establishment period (2-8 weeks depending on variety and season). Water your new lawn 2-3 times a
day and ensure that it does not dry out! You may require more water in extreme heat.

-Watering established turf Weeks 4-6+
Once your lawns new root system has started to establish (the turf is firm to the ground), you can start to gradually decrease your watering frequency and increase the time. It is best to do this slowly, so your
lawn can adapt to its new routine. Decrease to a longer water once a day, then every second day and so
on, until you are able to give your lawn one deep soak (1-2hours), once a week. These longer waters will
help your lawn to search for its own water in the soil, creating stronger and deeper roots.

What is the best way to water your lawn?
Not only is water essential for your turf, but the way in which you water is VERY important too. The most
efficient and effective way to water your lawn is by using a portable sprinkler or a pop-up irrigation system.
This method of watering delivers water evenly and quickly. If you are using a portable sprinkler, just be
mindful to move the sprinkler around your yard as required to ensure your whole lawn is receiving water.
(HANDY TIP: Add a tap timer to your tap so you can just ‘Set & Forget’)

From time to time weeds, Pests and even disease may invade your lawn. Regular maintenance and feeding of the lawn along with regular mowing with sharp blades will reduce the incidence disease and weed invasion.

Selective herbicides are available for problem weeds such as clover, Bindii, Mallow, Cats Ear etc and Wintergrass control for Couch and Kikuyu lawns. Further information on weed control can be found here.

In the event of Black Beetle larvae (Cockchafers) invading the lawn the use of any lawn grub and beetle control will help. For Black Beetle these are best applied in October and January in Victoria as this breaks the life cycle of the Black Beetle. More information on Lawn Grubs can be found here. 

Disease can affect lawns at certain times of year although if nutrition and moisture levels along with correct mowing procedures are maintained their incidence in our varieties is rare. Moist damp conditions and poor health are the cause of most disease problems. Good maintenance practices are the best methods of avoiding disease. The use of Mancozeb fungicide will help cure diseases such as Fusarium, Brown Patch and Helminthosporium.